Written by Elizabeth · Published July 24, 2026 Reviewed by Olivia
⚡ Quick Answer
Hall-Effect switches, usually called magnetic switches, sense a keypress with a magnet and a magnetic sensor instead of two metal contacts touching. Because the sensor tracks the magnet’s position the whole way down, the keyboard always knows exactly how far each key is pressed. That is what unlocks adjustable actuation and rapid trigger, and it is why these switches have taken off for competitive gaming.
For years, nearly every mechanical keyboard worked the same way underneath: press a key, two metal contacts touch, and the keypress registers. Hall-Effect switches change that basic step, and the change turns out to matter a lot for gamers. This guide explains what they are, how they work, and whether you actually need one.
How Hall-Effect switches work
A Hall-Effect switch has a tiny magnet in the moving stem and a magnetic sensor on the circuit board below. As you press the key, the magnet moves closer to the sensor, and the sensor measures the change in the magnetic field. The Hall Effect is just the physics term for a sensor producing a voltage in response to a magnetic field, named after the scientist who discovered it.
The key detail is that this reading is continuous. A normal mechanical switch only knows two states, pressed or not pressed. A magnetic switch knows the exact depth of the key at every instant, measured in fractions of a millimeter. Everything useful about these switches comes from that one difference.
There is also no physical contact to register the press, so nothing rubs or wears out at the point of actuation. That makes magnetic switches very consistent over time.
Magnetic vs mechanical switches
Here is how the two compare on the things you can feel and use.
Feature
Mechanical switch
Magnetic (Hall-Effect) switch
How it registers
Two metal contacts touch
A sensor reads a magnet’s position
Actuation point
Fixed by the switch
Adjustable in software
Rapid trigger
No
Yes
Analog input
No
Yes, on supported boards
Swap for normal switches
Often yes, if hot-swap
No, needs a magnetic board
Wear at the contact
Contacts can wear over time
No physical contact to wear
Best for
Typing and all-round use
Competitive gaming
What magnetic switches let you do
Three features come out of that continuous reading, and they are the real reason to care.
Adjustable actuation
The actuation point is how far you press a key before it registers. On a magnetic board you set this yourself in software, anywhere from a hair-trigger 0.1 mm to a deliberate 3 mm or more. Gamers set it shallow for fast reactions, and typists set it deeper to avoid accidental presses. One board can do both.
Rapid trigger
Rapid trigger resets a key the moment you start lifting it, instead of waiting for it to travel back past a fixed point. In practice, that means you can spam a key or counter-strafe in an FPS faster and more precisely, because each press is recognized as soon as you move. This is the feature competitive players talk about most.
Analog input
Because the board reads how far a key is pressed, some magnetic keyboards can send analog input, like a controller stick. A light press can walk your character and a full press can sprint, from the same key. Support for this varies by board and game, so check before buying if it is a priority.
The trade-offs
Magnetic switches are not a straight upgrade for everyone. The gains are real, but so are the costs.
You give up hot-swap flexibility. Magnetic switches only work on boards built for them, and you cannot mix them with standard mechanical switches. If you like changing switches to tune feel and sound, a normal hot-swap board is more flexible.
They cost more. A magnetic board with the same build quality as a mechanical one usually costs more, and the value only pays off if you use the gaming features.
The software matters more. All the good stuff lives in software, so a board with clunky software is harder to get the most out of. Check what the configurator is like before you buy.
Common misconceptions
Magnetic switches make you a better typist. Not really. Their advantages are about gaming speed and precision. For pure typing feel, a well-lubed tactile or linear mechanical switch is just as good, and often nicer.
They are all linear. Most magnetic switches are smooth linears, but the feel still varies by model, weight, and lube. The magnet handles sensing, not how the keystroke feels in your fingers.
Should you get one?
Get a magnetic board if you play competitive games, especially fast shooters, and you want adjustable actuation and rapid trigger. That is where the technology earns its price.
Stick with normal mechanical switches if you mostly type, you like swapping switches to tune feel, or you want the best value for the money. A good hot-swap board with tactile or linear switches will serve you well and cost less.
If you want to see magnetic switches in real boards, Akko’s MOD007 and 5075 V3 HE lines are an affordable place to start, covered in our best Akko keyboards guide.
Frequently asked questions
Are Hall-Effect switches better than mechanical?
They are better for competitive gaming, thanks to adjustable actuation and rapid trigger. For typing and general use, a good mechanical switch is just as pleasant and usually cheaper. Better depends on what you do, not on the technology alone.
Do Hall-Effect switches last longer?
They can, because there is no physical contact at the point where the press registers, so nothing wears out there. In everyday use both types last for years, so longevity is rarely the deciding factor.
Can I put magnetic switches in any keyboard?
No. Magnetic switches need a keyboard with magnetic sensors built into the circuit board. You cannot add them to a standard mechanical board, and you cannot mix them with normal switches.
What is rapid trigger?
Rapid trigger resets a key as soon as you begin lifting it, rather than waiting for it to return past a fixed point. It lets you repeat presses and change direction faster, which is why competitive FPS players value it.
We keep our switch guides updated as the technology and available boards change.
My first custom keyboard build did not go smoothly. I bent six switch pins trying to rush the PCB installation, forgot to lube the stabilizers entirely, and assembled the whole thing before realising I had never flashed the firmware. I had to take it apart three times. By the end of that Saturday, I had a keyboard that sounded like rattling coins in a tin can.
I also could not stop typing on it.
There is something that changes when you use a keyboard you built yourself. Every keystroke carries the memory of the work you put in, the hours of prep, the satisfaction of hearing that first clean thock when everything finally came together. That feeling is what drives people to build their second, third, and fifteenth board.
This guide is the one I wish I had for that first build. Every mistake I made is documented here as a warning, and every step is sequenced the right way. Whether you are spending $120 or $400, hot-swapping or soldering, building a 60% or a TKL, this guide covers it.
⚡ Quick Answer
To build a custom mechanical keyboard you need six core parts: a case, a PCB (hot-swap recommended), a plate, switches, stabilizers, and keycaps. Lube your stabilizers and switches before assembly, test the PCB before installing switches, then assemble case, plate, and keycaps in sequence. A beginner build takes 3–4 hours and costs $100–200 for a solid entry-level result.
1. Why Build a Custom Keyboard Instead of Just Buying One?
This is a fair question, and it deserves an honest answer. A pre-built keyboard from Keychron or Logitech can be genuinely excellent. You do not need to build a keyboard to get a great typing experience. So why do thousands of people go through the effort?
🎛️ Total Control
Every element (case material, switch feel, sound profile, keycap colours) is your choice. No compromises forced by a manufacturer.
💰 Better Value
A $200 custom build usually outperforms a $200 off-the-shelf board because you choose the exact switches and keycaps.
🔄 Fully Upgradeable
Swap switches without a new board. Change keycaps seasonally. Add foam mods later. A good case and PCB are a platform.
🎓 Deep Understanding
You learn how every part works, which makes troubleshooting, modding, and future builds far easier.
ℹ️ Honest caveat: If you want a great keyboard for under $80 right now with zero effort, a pre-built like the Keychron V series is genuinely good. Custom builds make the most sense in the $120–400 range where the quality gap becomes significant.
2. Choose Your Layout First, and Everything Else Follows
Your layout choice determines which cases, PCBs, plates, and keycap sets are compatible with your build. Choose the wrong layout and you will find yourself with limited part options. Choose before you buy anything else.
60% ~61 keys Compact
65% ~68 keys ⭐ Best for beginners
75% ~84 keys Function row
TKL ~87 keys No numpad
Full Size 104 keys With numpad
Why 65% Is the Best First Layout
The 65% layout hits the sweet spot that no other size quite matches. It keeps the arrow keys, which you will miss far more than you expect on a 60%, while removing the function row and numpad most people rarely use. The result is a board that fits on any desk, supports an enormous range of keycap sets, and has more kit options than any other non-standard layout. If you are genuinely unsure, pick 65% and do not second-guess it.
💡 Keycap compatibility tip: Before committing to any layout, check that your chosen keycap set covers it. Most sets support full-size, TKL, and 65%. Some do not include 75% modifiers or 60% bottom rows. Always verify compatibility on the keycap listing before purchasing.
3. Budget Planning: Three Realistic Tiers
Custom keyboard budgets vary wildly. Here is an honest breakdown of what each tier actually gets you, based on real builds, not aspirational marketing.
Entry Level $100–180
KBD67 Lite kit + Gateron switches + budget keycap set. Polycarbonate or acrylic case, hot-swap PCB. Excellent performance for the price, this tier still feels premium.
Mid Range $200–350
Keychron Q2 Pro or Zoom65 kit + quality switches (Gateron Oil King, Boba U4T) + GMK or Domikey keycaps. Aluminum case, gasket mount. Where most enthusiasts live.
Enthusiast $400–800+
Group buy boards (Mode Eighty, Satisfaction75) + hand-lubed premium switches + premium GMK keycaps. Brass or aluminum plate, POM gaskets. The diminishing-returns tier.
💡 Spend most on keycaps and switches, least on the case. A $90 KBD67 Lite case with $50 Gateron Oil Kings and an $80 GMK keycap set will sound and feel better than a $200 aluminum case with stock switches and cheap keycaps. Prioritise what touches your fingers.
4. Every Part Explained
Every custom keyboard build requires exactly six components. Miss any one and the build cannot be completed. The table below breaks down each part, what to look for, and where to buy.
Part
What It Does
Beginner Pick
Where to Buy
Budget
Case
Houses all components; defines sound, weight, aesthetics
Sits between PCB and switches; affects sound and feel
Polycarbonate (flexible, absorbs sound)
Bundled with most kits
$15–50
Switches
Moving mechanical parts under each key; defines typing feel
Gateron G Pro 3.0 linear or Boba U4 tactile
Divinikey, Ringerkeys, KBDfans
$20–60 / 70
Stabilizers
Support larger keys to prevent wobble
Durock V2 or TX screw-in
Divinikey, KBDfans
$15–30
Keycaps
Visible tops of each key; defines look and feel
PBT doubleshot or dye-sublimated
Divinikey, KBDfans, Drop
$30–150
Switches: The Decision That Matters Most
Of all six parts, your switch choice has the greatest impact on how the finished keyboard feels. Switches fall into three categories: linear (smooth, no bump), tactile (a bump at the actuation point), and clicky (tactile bump plus an audible click). For a first build, linear or tactile are strongly recommended, as they are more forgiving to lube and more universally pleasant.
Keycaps come in two main plastics: ABS (smooth, vivid colours, develops shine over time) and PBT (slightly textured, more durable, resistant to shine). For a first build, PBT doubleshot or dye-sublimated keycaps offer the best durability and value.
5. Case Mount Types Explained
The mount type determines how the plate and PCB assembly connects to the case, which directly affects sound and typing feel.
ℹ️ For a first build: Gasket mount is worth paying for if your budget allows, the improvement in sound and feel is immediately noticeable. The KBD67 Lite ($90) offers gasket mount at an entry-level price and is the best-value starting point in 2026.
6. Tools You Need
Most of these are one-time purchases that carry across every future build. The switch opener and switch puller are the two items worth buying specifically for this hobby.
Phillips screwdriver (#0 and #1), for case screws. A precision set covers both, under $10.
Switch opener, for opening switches before lubing. Never use a flathead; it cracks housings. (~$5–8)
Fine-tip brush (size 00), for applying lube precisely. (~$3–5)
Switch puller, removes and installs hot-swap switches without bending pins. (~$5–8)
Wire keycap puller, always wire, never ring-style, to avoid scratches. (~$5)
Tweezers, for springs, stabilizer parts, and small components. (~$4)
USB-C cable, for PCB testing and firmware flashing.
Isopropyl alcohol (90%+), for cleaning parts and fixing lube mistakes.
7. Step-by-Step: How to Build Your Keyboard
This sequence applies to any hot-swappable 65% kit build. The order matters: stabilizers go in before switches, and the PCB is tested before both. Follow it and you will avoid the mistakes that forced me to disassemble my first board three times.
Step 1: Unbox and inventory all parts
Lay everything out on a clean mat. Account for every component: case halves, PCB, plate, all screws, the stabilizer set, foam sheets, and the USB cable. Count your switches, most 65% boards need 68–70. Check keycaps against a layout diagram. It is far better to find a missing part now than three hours into the build.
Step 1: Lay out all parts and verify inventory before beginning
Step 2: Lube and prepare stabilizers
This takes 30–45 minutes and is the single most impactful thing you can do for final sound quality. Disassemble each stabilizer into housing, stem, and wire. Apply Krytox 205g0 to the housing interior and stem sides. Apply dielectric grease to both wire ends to eliminate rattle. Apply the band-aid mod to the PCB stabilizer pads. Full instructions in our stabilizer guide.
Step 2: Prepare and lube stabilizers for optimal performance
Step 3: Install stabilizers onto the PCB
Screw-in stabilizers install through the PCB with a screw on the back and a clip on the front. Insert the clip side first, then thread the screw from the back with a #0 screwdriver. Tighten until snug, but do not overtighten, as PCBs can crack. Wiggle the housings and press the stems; there should be minimal rattle.
Step 3: Install stabilizers securely onto the PCB
Step 4: Test the PCB before installing switches
This saves enormous time. Connect the PCB via USB-C and open a key tester in Chrome. Use metal tweezers to briefly short each hot-swap socket, and every position should register on screen. If one does not, check for debris, a bent socket pin, or a solder bridge. Fix issues now, before switches and keycaps are on.
Step 4: Test all PCB positions before proceeding
Step 5: Lube your switches
Open each switch, apply Krytox 205g0 (linear) or Tribosys 3203 (tactile) to the stem and housing rails, lube the springs, and reassemble. This adds 1–2 hours but transforms the result, the difference between lubed and unlubed is immediately audible. Full technique: How to Lube Keyboard Switches.
Step 5: Lube each switch for optimal feel and sound
Step 6: Seat switches into the plate, then press onto PCB
Insert each switch through the plate cutouts until the tabs click. Install all switches into the plate first, then align the assembly above the PCB, making sure every pin lines up with a socket. Press down firmly and evenly from the center outward. Do not force switches in at an angle; that bends pins.
Step 6: Install switches into the plate, then press onto the PCB
Step 7: Add foam dampening (optional but recommended)
Before closing the case, add sound dampening. Case foam reduces hollowness. PCB foam tightens the sound. The PE foam mod (a thin sheet on top of the PCB before switches) produces the warm, poppy sound popular in 2024–2026. Cut foam to your PCB layout and place it before the next step.
Step 7: Add foam layers for improved sound and feel
Step 8: Assemble the case
For gasket mount, align the gasket strips with the case channels before pressing the halves together. Thread all case screws by hand first, then tighten in a star pattern for even pressure. Finger-tight plus a quarter turn is enough. Overtightening warps PCBs and strips threads.
Step 8: Assemble case halves and secure with proper torque
Step 9: Install keycaps and run final test
Press keycaps onto the stems, alphas first, then modifiers, then special keys. Once all are on, connect the board and open a key tester. Press every key and confirm it registers. Test stabilized keys and listen for rattle. If a key is dead, pull the switch, check for a bent pin, straighten, and reinstall.
Step 9: Install keycaps and test every key
8. Common Beginner Mistakes
🚫 Not testing the PCB first. A dead key found after assembly means removing keycaps and switches to diagnose, 20 minutes. Testing takes 5 minutes before assembly. Always test first.
🚫 Skipping stabilizer lubing. An unlubed spacebar in an otherwise great build sounds like a rattling tin can. Budget 30–45 minutes and do it properly, it cannot be shortcut.
⚠️ Overtightening case screws. Screws only need to be snug. Overtightening warps PCBs, strips threads, and can crack polycarbonate cases. Finger-tight plus a quarter turn is correct.
💡 Buying cheap stabilizers. This is the one place where spending $5 more makes a disproportionate difference. Durock V2 or TX stabilizers ($15–25) are dramatically better than generic bundled ones. Upgrade these before anything else.
9. Firmware: VIA and QMK
Most modern PCBs ship with QMK pre-flashed and VIA enabled, so you can remap keys on first connection, no coding required.
Using VIA (recommended for beginners)
VIA is a browser-based tool that connects over USB and lets you remap keys, create layers, and assign macros visually, no install, no code. It requires Chrome (Web USB). Changes save to the keyboard’s onboard memory and persist unplugged. Learn more in our guide to QMK and VIA.
Using QMK (advanced)
QMK is the open-source firmware underneath VIA, giving access to per-key RGB, tap-dance, combos, and custom functions. The trade-off is compiling from source. The official QMK docs are excellent, but for a first build, use VIA.
10. Frequently Asked Questions
How much does it cost to build a custom mechanical keyboard?
A solid entry-level build costs $100–180. A mid-range build with gasket-mount case, premium switches, and quality keycaps costs $200–350. Enthusiast builds start at $400 and climb. The sweet spot for most beginners is $150–200.
Is building a custom keyboard hard for beginners?
A hot-swap build is beginner-friendly, no soldering. If you can follow instructions and assemble flat-pack furniture, you can build a keyboard. Budget 3–4 hours, work carefully, and test the PCB before installing switches.
Do I need to solder to build a custom keyboard?
No, hot-swap PCBs require zero soldering. Switches press into metal sockets on the PCB. Look specifically for “hot-swap” in the product listing.
What switches should I choose for my first build?
For linear, Gateron G Pro 3.0 or Gateron Oil King. For tactile, Boba U4 (silent) or Gateron Brown Pro 3.0. Unsure? Read our full comparison first.
What is a gasket mount keyboard and should I buy one?
A gasket mount suspends the plate and PCB on gaskets instead of screwing them rigidly to the case, creating a softer feel and better dampening. Worth choosing if sound and feel are priorities. The KBD67 Lite offers it at $90.
Last Updated: July 28, 2026
By: Elizabeth & Olivia
We regularly review and update our guides to ensure keyboard recommendations, specs, and switch information stay current with the latest releases and market changes.
Affiliate disclosure: this article contains affiliate links to KBDfans, Divinikey, and Amazon. Purchases made through these links support Clickyboard at no extra cost to you.
Written by Elizabeth · Published August 29, 2024 Reviewed & Updated by Olivia · Updated on July 26, 2026
Disclosure: This guide contains affiliate links. If you buy through them we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. We only recommend switches we would put in our own boards.
Akko has become one of the best value brands in switches, and its linear lineup is where it shines. Linear switches press straight down with no bump, which makes them smooth and a favorite for gaming and fast typing. But Akko sells a lot of them, split across the budget CS series and the pre-lubed V3 Pro series, and they do not all feel the same. Below are the best Akko linear switches in 2026, ranked and sorted so you can pick the right one for your build.
⚡ Quick take
For most people the V3 Cream Yellow Pro is the best all-round Akko linear: smooth, pre-lubed, and easy to love out of the box. Gamers who want speed should get the V3 Silver Pro, and anyone on a budget is well served by the CS Jelly Black. New to switch types? Read our tactile vs linear guide first.
How we picked
We judged each Akko linear on smoothness, sound, spring weight, whether it comes factory pre-lubed, and value. The V3 Pro switches ship pre-lubed and feel more refined, while the CS series is cheaper and still solid for the money. Every pick below has a clear best use and an honest downside, because no single switch suits everyone.
Akko linear switches compared
Switch
Series
Weight (approx)
Best for
V3 Cream Yellow Pro
V3 Pro
~50 g
Best overall
V3 Piano Pro
V3 Pro
~63 g
Best sound
CS Jelly Black
CS
~50 g
Best budget
V3 Cream Black Pro
V3 Pro
~60 g
Best heavier linear
V3 Silver Pro
V3 Pro
~43 g
Best for gaming and speed
V3 Matcha Green Pro
V3 Pro
~50 g
Best balanced feel
Akko x TTC Demon
Collab
~42 g
Best light and smooth
V3 Penguin (Silent)
V3 Pro
~45 g
Best silent linear
Rosewood
Themed
~43 g
Light budget classic
POM Pink
Themed
~45 g
Creamy, muted feel
CS Crystal
CS
~43 g
Budget RGB shine-through
CS Wine Red
CS
~50 g
Budget all-rounder
The best Akko linear switches
1. Akko V3 Cream Yellow Pro, the best all-rounder
Why it is here. A medium-weight linear around 50 g that comes factory pre-lubed and feels smooth and deep straight out of the box. It is the switch most people should buy first, with a rounded, satisfying sound. Best for: an easy, do-it-all linear for typing and gaming.
Watch out: the mid weight feels a touch heavy if you prefer a fast, feather-light switch for competitive play.
Why it is here. Tuned for a deep, musical sound, the Piano Pro is pre-lubed and smooth with a fuller thock than most Akko linears. It is the pick if you care most about how a board sounds. Best for: sound-focused builds.
Watch out: it is heavier and pricier than the CS series, so it is overkill if you just want a cheap, light linear.
Why it is here. A budget linear around 50 g that is smoother than its price suggests and a favorite for first builds. Great value if you are filling a whole board. Best for: cheap builds that still want a pleasant feel.
Watch out: it is not pre-lubed, so it is a step less refined than the V3 Pro switches. A quick lube closes most of the gap.
4. Akko V3 Cream Black Pro, the best heavier linear
Why it is here. A pre-lubed linear around 60 g with a firmer, more deliberate press and a deep sound. Typists who bottom out hard tend to love it. Best for: heavy-handed typists who want control.
Watch out: the heavier spring tires out light typists and is not ideal for fast gaming.
Why it is here. A light, short-travel speed linear around 43 g that actuates fast, which competitive gamers value. Pre-lubed and smooth for a speed switch. Best for: fast gaming and quick reactions.
Watch out: the short travel and light spring cause accidental presses for some, especially while typing.
Why it is here. A smooth mid-weight linear around 50 g with a balanced feel and a pleasant, slightly muted sound. A great alternative if you want the Cream Yellow feel with a different tone. Best for: a balanced daily-driver linear.
Watch out: it is close enough to the Cream Yellow Pro that you rarely need both.
Why it is here. A collaboration with TTC that produces a very smooth, light linear around 42 g. If you like a fast, effortless keystroke, this is one of the smoothest light Akko options. Best for: light-touch typists and gamers.
Watch out: the light weight is not for heavy typists, and stock can be harder to find.
Why it is here. A silent linear that muffles the bottom-out for quiet offices, shared rooms, or late-night typing, while keeping a smooth press. Best for: quiet spaces where a normal switch would be too loud.
Watch out: the silencing pads make the bottom-out feel slightly mushy, so it is less crisp than a standard linear.
Why it is here. A light linear around 43 g from Akko’s themed lineup, smooth and easy to type on at a low price. A solid, no-drama budget option. Best for: a cheap, light everyday linear.
Watch out: it is an older line, so availability can be hit or miss.
Why it is here. POM parts give this linear a soft, creamy feel and a muted, rounded sound that some people prefer over a sharper switch. Best for: a softer, quieter linear character.
Watch out: the muted sound and soft feel are subjective, so try to hear it before buying a full set.
Why it is here. A clear-housing budget linear that lets RGB shine through brightly, so it is a natural pick for a colorful, backlit build. Light and easy to press. Best for: RGB-focused budget builds.
Watch out: the feel is basic next to the V3 Pro switches, and it is not pre-lubed.
Why it is here. A dependable budget linear around 50 g that handles both typing and gaming without fuss. A safe, cheap choice if you just want a solid linear. Best for: a low-cost, general-purpose linear.
Watch out: it is unremarkable next to the premium picks and has no factory lube.
Akko splits its linears into two families. The CS series is the budget line: good switches with no factory lube, best for cheap builds or if you plan to lube them yourself. The V3 Pro series costs more but ships pre-lubed and feels noticeably smoother and deeper out of the box. If you want the best experience with no extra work, buy V3 Pro. If you are filling a big board on a budget, the CS series is the smart value, and our switch lubing guide will get them most of the way to V3 Pro smoothness.
Frequently asked questions
What is the best Akko linear switch?
For most people the V3 Cream Yellow Pro is the best Akko linear overall. It is pre-lubed, smooth, and has a deep, pleasant sound out of the box. Gamers who want a lighter, faster switch should look at the V3 Silver Pro, and budget builders are well served by the CS Jelly Black.
Are Akko linear switches good?
Yes. Akko linears offer some of the best value in switches, especially the pre-lubed V3 Pro line, which feels smooth and refined for the price. The cheaper CS series is also solid, though it benefits from a lube job. They are a common recommendation for people getting into the hobby.
What is the difference between Akko CS and V3 Pro switches?
The CS series is budget-priced and not factory lubed, while the V3 Pro series costs more, ships pre-lubed, and feels smoother and deeper straight away. Buy V3 Pro for the best out-of-box feel, or CS if you want to save money and do not mind lubing them yourself.
Which Akko linear switch is best for gaming?
The V3 Silver Pro is the best Akko linear for gaming. It is a light, short-travel speed switch that actuates quickly, which helps in fast games. If you find it too light and prone to accidental presses, the V3 Cream Yellow Pro is a slightly heavier all-rounder that still games well.
Do Akko switches fit any keyboard?
Yes. Akko switches use the standard MX stem and pins, so they drop into any hot-swap or solderable board that takes MX-style switches. Check whether your board is 3-pin or 5-pin, though most modern hot-swap boards accept both.
Verdict: which Akko linear should you buy?
If you want one easy answer, buy the V3 Cream Yellow Pro. It is smooth, pre-lubed, and suits almost any build. Gamers should get the V3 Silver Pro for speed, budget builders should grab the CS Jelly Black, and anyone chasing a deep sound should try the V3 Piano Pro.
Whatever you pick, Akko linears are among the best value switches you can buy, and a lube job plus a well-built board will make any of them sing. If you are still weighing linear against tactile, our tactile vs linear guide and our best linear switches roundup will help, and you can pair these switches with a board from our best Akko keyboards guide.
We update this roundup as Akko releases new switches and community favorites shift, so the picks stay current.
Written by Elizabeth · Published July 5, 2023 Reviewed & Updated by Olivia · Updated on July 27, 2026
Disclosure: This guide contains affiliate links. If you buy through them we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.
⚡ Quick answer
O-rings are small rubber rings you slip onto your keycap stems to cushion the bottom-out, which cuts the loud clack of a key hitting the plate. They are the cheapest, fastest way to make a keyboard quieter, but they are a blunt tool: they shorten key travel and only soften the down-stroke, not the whole sound. For a few dollars they are worth trying, though silent switches or foam mods do a cleaner job.
What o-rings do
An o-ring sits under the keycap, so when you press a key it hits the rubber instead of bottoming out hard against the switch housing. That softens the impact noise and the harsh feeling of bottoming out. It does nothing to the upstroke sound or the switch’s own noise, so it quiets one part of the equation, not all of it.
Do they actually work?
Yes, for what they are. If your board has a loud, hollow bottom-out, o-rings noticeably take the edge off for very little money. The trade-off is feel: because the ring stops the key early, your travel gets shorter and the bottom-out feels softer, even a little mushy. Some people like that cushioned feel; others find it dead. It is a personal call, and at this price it is cheap to test.
Choosing thickness and hardness
Thickness: thin rings (around 0.2mm) barely shorten travel and lightly soften the sound. Thick rings cut more travel and dampen more. Start thin if you are unsure.
Hardness (durometer): softer rings (around 40A) absorb more and feel squishier; firmer rings (around 50 to 70A) dampen less but keep a crisper feel. A medium hardness is the safe middle ground.
If you want quiet without killing the feel, a thin, medium-hardness ring is the best starting point.
The best o-ring options
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Best overall: a branded set (such as WASD or Glorious) in a medium thickness and hardness, sized for Cherry MX stems. The safe, quality all-rounder.
Pull each keycap with a wire puller, slip an o-ring over the stem, and press the keycap back on. Doing all 87 to 104 keys takes 15 to 20 minutes. If it feels too soft afterward, swap to thinner rings.
Better alternatives worth knowing
Silent switches dampen the noise inside the switch, so you keep full travel and a cleaner sound.
Foam mods and the band-aid mod, covered in our build guide, reduce case and stabilizer noise that o-rings cannot touch.
Switch pads are a purpose-built version of the o-ring idea that some people prefer.
Frequently asked questions
Do o-rings make a keyboard quieter?
Yes, they soften the bottom-out noise, though not the upstroke or the switch’s own sound. They quiet one part of the noise, not all of it.
Do o-rings ruin typing feel?
They shorten travel and soften the bottom-out. Some people like it, some find it mushy. Thinner rings reduce the effect if you want quiet without much change in feel.
What size o-rings fit a mechanical keyboard?
Rings sized for Cherry MX-style stems fit the vast majority of mechanical keyboards. Check that the set lists MX compatibility before buying.
Are o-rings or silent switches better?
Silent switches feel cleaner and keep full travel, but cost more. O-rings are the cheap, reversible option if you just want to take the edge off a loud board.
The bottom line
O-rings are the cheapest, easiest way to quiet a loud keyboard, and they are worth the few dollars if bottom-out noise bothers you. Start with a thin, medium-hardness set, and if you want a cleaner result without the softer feel, look at silent switches or foam mods instead.
We keep our accessory guides updated as new products and methods appear.
Written by Elizabeth · Published June 29, 2023 Reviewed & Updated by Olivia · Updated on July 27, 2026
⚡ Quick answer
No, membrane keyboards are not bad, they are just different. For light typing, browsing, and casual use they are perfectly fine, and they are cheaper, quieter, and more spill-resistant than mechanical boards. Mechanical keyboards win on feel, durability, and pressing many keys at once, which matters most for heavy typists and gamers. The “membrane is terrible” reputation is mostly enthusiast bias, not the full story.
If you have spent any time in keyboard communities, you have seen membrane keyboards dismissed as junk. The truth is more balanced. They are the right tool for some people and the wrong one for others. Here is the honest breakdown.
How a membrane keyboard works
Under each key sits a soft rubber dome. Press the key and the dome collapses, pushing a contact down onto a printed membrane sheet that completes the circuit and registers the keypress. The rubber dome is also what springs the key back up. One flexible sheet handles the whole board, which is exactly why they are cheap to make. That is the core difference from a mechanical keyboard, where every key has its own separate spring-loaded switch.
Where membrane keyboards are actually good
Cheap. They cost a fraction of a mechanical board, and the free one that came with your PC is almost certainly a membrane.
Quiet. The rubber dome muffles the sound, which is great for shared spaces and offices.
Spill-resistant. The sealed membrane sheet shrugs off small spills and dust far better than exposed switches.
Light and slim. Easy to travel with and to tuck away.
For someone who types a bit, browses, and does not care about typing feel, a good membrane keyboard genuinely does the job.
Where mechanical keyboards genuinely win
Consistent, satisfying feel. Every key feels the same and gives a crisp response, where a membrane can feel mushy and uneven.
Durability. Mechanical switches are rated for 50 million or more presses; rubber domes wear out and grow mushier over a year or two.
Many keys at once. Good mechanical boards register several simultaneous presses without dropping inputs, which cheap membranes struggle with (called ghosting). This matters for gaming.
Choice and repairability. You can pick your switch feel, swap keycaps, and on hot-swap boards even change switches later.
The real downsides of membrane
To be fair to the critics, membranes do have honest flaws. The typing feel is softer and less consistent, they get mushier as the rubber ages, and cheaper models drop inputs when you press several keys quickly. For someone who types for hours or games competitively, those things add up.
What about mecha-membrane and scissor switches?
There is a middle ground. Mecha-membrane and similar hybrids try to add a clicky, more tactile feel on top of a membrane, landing between the two types. Scissor-switch keyboards, common on laptops and slim boards, are a refined membrane with a more stable, low-profile key. Neither matches a true mechanical, but both feel better than a basic rubber dome.
So who should use which?
Stick with membrane if you want something cheap, quiet, and low-maintenance, you type casually, or you need spill resistance in a rough environment.
Upgrade to mechanical if you type or game for more than an hour a day, you care about how a keyboard feels, or you want a board that lasts for years and can be customized. Our keyboard sizes and types guide is a good next step.
Frequently asked questions
Are membrane keyboards bad for gaming?
Cheap ones can drop simultaneous inputs (ghosting), which hurts fast games. Better membranes and gaming models handle it, but mechanical boards are more reliable for serious gaming.
Do membrane keyboards last as long as mechanical?
Usually not. Rubber domes wear and grow mushier over time, while mechanical switches are rated for tens of millions of presses.
Are membrane keyboards good for typing?
For light, casual typing, yes. For long sessions, mechanical feels more consistent and less tiring for most people.
Why do people say membrane keyboards are bad?
Mostly because enthusiasts compare them to premium mechanical boards. Against that bar they feel mushy, but as everyday tools they are perfectly capable.
The bottom line
Membrane keyboards are not bad, they are budget-friendly, quiet, and fine for everyday use. Mechanical keyboards are the upgrade if you type or game a lot and want better feel, durability, and reliability. Match the tool to how you actually use a keyboard, and neither choice is wrong.
We keep our guides updated as keyboard technology and value change.
Written by Elizabeth · Published June 28, 2023 Reviewed & Updated by Olivia · Updated on July 27, 2026
⚡ Quick answer
To film a switch, open it, drop a thin plastic film onto the bottom housing so it fills the gap between the two halves, then reassemble. Filming reduces housing wobble and tightens the sound. Not sure whether your switches even need it? Read what switch films are and whether you need them first, then come back here for the how-to.
This guide is the step-by-step. If you have your films and want to get filming, everything you need is below.
What you need
Your switches and a set of switch films (usually 0.15mm to start)
A switch opener (do not use a flathead, it cracks housings)
Tweezers for handling the film
A clean, well-lit workspace and a tray to catch springs
Step-by-step: how to film a switch
Open the switch. Set it in the switch opener and press down to pop the top housing off the bottom. Set the stem and spring aside so nothing gets lost.
Place the film. Lay the film onto the rim of the bottom housing. Most films have cutouts that line up with the internal posts and the gold contact leaf. Line them up and do not cover the leaf.
Check the fit. The film should sit flat and flush against the rim, with no overhang, lifting, or wrinkling. Nudge it with tweezers until it seats cleanly.
Reassemble. Drop the spring and stem back in, then snap the top housing on. It should close with a normal press. If it needs real force, the film is too thick, so switch to a thinner one.
Test it. Press the switch a few times. A filmed switch should feel noticeably tighter with less side-to-side wobble than before.
Repeat for each switch. A full board takes 1 to 2 hours once you find a rhythm.
Pro tips
Film before you lube. Handle the dry housing and film first, then apply lube after the film is seated. If you plan to lube too, our switch lubing guide covers the next step.
Start with 0.15mm. It suits most switches. Go thinner (0.125mm) if reassembly feels tight, thicker (0.2mm) only for very loose housings.
Do a test batch of five before committing to the whole board, so you can confirm the thickness is right.
Common mistakes to avoid
Covering the contact leaf with the film, which stops the switch registering. Keep the leaf area clear.
Forcing a too-thick film, which raises the top housing and can bind the stem. Drop to a thinner film instead.
Wrinkled or overhanging film, which prevents a clean close. Reseat it flat.
Frequently asked questions
How long does it take to film a keyboard’s switches?
About 1 to 2 hours for a 60 to 80 key board, similar to lubing. It goes faster once you settle into a rhythm.
Should I film or lube first?
Film first, then lube, since both need the switch open and lube would get in the way of seating the film cleanly.
What thickness film should I use?
Start with 0.15mm. It works for most switches; go thinner or thicker only if reassembly is too tight or the housing is very loose.
Do all switches need filming?
No. Tight, premium switches gain little. See our switch films explainer for how to tell if yours will benefit.
The bottom line
Filming is simple once you have the rhythm: open, seat the film, reassemble, test. Start with a small batch at 0.15mm, film before you lube, and keep the contact leaf clear. Done right, your switches will feel tighter and sound cleaner.
We keep our how-to guides updated as tools and techniques change.
Written by Elizabeth · Published June 27, 2023 Reviewed & Updated by Olivia · Updated on July 28, 2026
⚡ Quick Answer
To test a keyboard PCB, plug it into your computer, open a key-testing tool (VIA, the QMK Configurator test matrix, or a browser tester like keyboardchecker.com), and short each switch footprint’s two pads with metal tweezers. Every position that registers on screen is good; any that stays silent has a hardware fault. The walkthrough below covers the switches, the microcontroller, the LEDs, and the USB connector.
Whether you are building your own keyboard or troubleshooting one that started dropping keys, a few minutes of PCB testing saves hours of frustration later. The PCB is the backbone of the board, tying every switch and component together, so a single bad joint or trace can take out a key, a row, or the whole thing. Testing early tells you exactly where the problem is while it is still easy to fix or return.
What You Need
The keyboard PCB
A USB cable
A computer
A key-testing tool: VIA (usevia.app) or the QMK Configurator test matrix for programmable boards, or a browser tester such as keyboardchecker.com for any board
A conductive object: metal tweezers, a paperclip, or a small screwdriver
A multimeter set to continuity mode (optional, for tracing dead spots)
Work on a clean, static-free surface and take a moment to look over the board first. Knowing where the switch pads, diodes, and microcontroller sit makes it much easier to spot anything out of place while you test.
Step 1: Test the Switch Positions
The switch positions are the most important thing to check, since they register every key press. You can test them on a completely bare PCB, no soldering required.
Connect the PCB to your computer with the USB cable.
Open your key-testing tool and, if prompted, select the layout that matches your PCB.
Take your metal tweezers or paperclip and briefly bridge the two pads for one switch position.
Watch the screen. If that position is good, the tester registers a key press.
Repeat for every switch position on the board.
If a position never registers, you have found a fault at that spot. On a hot-swap PCB you can also test by pushing a known-good switch into the socket instead of bridging the pads.
Step 2: Test the Other Components
Once the switch matrix checks out, confirm the rest of the board is healthy.
Microcontroller: with a multimeter, measure the voltage across the VCC (power) and GND (ground) pins. A reading close to the expected value (usually around 5V or 3.3V) means it is powered correctly.
LEDs: power the board and check that any indicator or per-key LEDs light up as expected. Dead LEDs point to a bad solder joint or a faulty LED.
USB connector: plug the board into your computer and confirm it is recognised as a device. If nothing appears, the connector or its solder joints are the first suspects.
Step 3: Troubleshoot What You Find
When a position or component fails, the fix depends on the pattern of the fault:
A single dead key: reflow the solder joints on that switch and check the nearby diode. A cold joint or a cracked diode leg is the usual cause.
A whole row or column dead at once: the problem is almost always one shared trace or diode, not every switch. Follow that row or column back with a multimeter in continuity mode to find the break.
LEDs, microcontroller, or USB port: reflow the joints first. If the part itself is damaged, it may need replacing, which calls for careful soldering or professional help.
Always unplug the board before reworking joints, and take basic anti-static precautions when handling the components.
Extra Tips
Test in a logical order. Work row by row so you never lose track of which position you just checked, especially on a full-size board.
Not sure about a single key? Bridge its pads again and watch closely. A position that registers intermittently usually has a marginal solder joint worth reflowing.
Use the multimeter for the stubborn faults. Continuity mode between a switch pad and the microcontroller side quickly reveals a broken trace that a key tester alone cannot pinpoint.
💡 Building a board from scratch? Test the bare PCB before you solder or seat a single switch. It takes ten minutes and catches faults while they are still easy to fix. See our custom keyboard build guide for where this fits in the full process.
Frequently Asked Questions
When should I test my keyboard PCB?
Test a bare PCB before soldering switches or assembling the case. It takes ten minutes and catches faults while they are still easy to fix or return. Re-test after any modification, and whenever keys start misbehaving.
Can I test a keyboard PCB without soldering it?
Yes, that is exactly what the tweezer test does. Shorting the two switch pads with a conductive tool simulates a key press, so you can verify every position on a completely bare PCB. Hot-swap PCBs can also be tested by pushing switches into the sockets.
What should I do if some keys don’t register during testing?
Check the solder joints and traces around the dead key first, and use a multimeter in continuity mode between the switch pad and the microcontroller side to find the break. If a whole row or column is dead at once, the fault is usually a single shared trace or diode rather than the individual switches.
Which software tools can I use for PCB testing?
VIA (usevia.app) has a built-in key tester and runs in the browser for VIA-enabled boards. The QMK Configurator offers a test matrix for QMK boards. For anything else, a generic browser tester such as keyboardchecker.com shows each registered keystroke.
Do I need to test a pre-assembled PCB?
Yes, briefly. Factory QC misses things, and shipping can damage solder joints. A two-minute full-key test on arrival keeps you inside the return window if something is wrong.
We keep our build and repair guides updated as tools and techniques change.
Written by Elizabeth · Published June 26, 2023 Reviewed & Updated by Olivia · Updated on July 27, 2026
Disclosure: This guide contains affiliate links. If you buy through them we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.
⚡ Verdict
Kailh is one of the biggest switch makers in the world, and it stands out for three things: dustproof Box switches, some of the crispest clicky switches anywhere thanks to their click-bar design, and the best low-profile (Choc) switches for slim keyboards. Variety and value are excellent. Kailh’s linears historically trailed Gateron for smoothness, but the Cream and Pro series closed most of that gap.
Who makes Kailh switches?
Kailh is the switch brand of Kaihua Electronics, a large Chinese manufacturer that has made switches since the 1990s. Beyond its own name, Kailh is a major supplier that builds switches and low-profile keys for many other keyboard brands, so you have very likely typed on a Kailh switch without knowing it. That scale is why the lineup is so broad.
What makes Kailh different
The Box design. Kailh Box switches wrap the contact mechanism in a square box stem that seals out dust and moisture (rated IP56) and reduces wobble. It also lets the clicky versions use a click bar for a crisper, more consistent click and faster reset than a Cherry Blue.
Low-profile leadership. Kailh Choc switches are the standard for slim, low-profile keyboards, used across popular thin boards. No other maker owns this space the way Kailh does.
Sheer variety. From heavy thick-click switches to novelty and collaboration switches, Kailh makes more switch types than almost anyone.
The main Kailh switch families
Box switches
The flagship line. Clicky options run from the light Box White to the heavier, louder Box Jade and the heaviest Box Navy, all with that sharp click-bar sound. There are also tactile (Box Brown) and linear (Box Red) versions. Box switches take standard keycaps and resist dust.
Speed switches
Built for gaming, Kailh Speed switches (Silver, Copper, Bronze, Gold) actuate higher up the keystroke for faster inputs. Silver is the linear speed switch; the others add tactile or clicky feedback.
Pro series
The Pro switches (Pro Purple tactile, Pro Burgundy linear, Pro Light Green clicky) are smoother and better-tuned than the basic line, and they are a community favorite for value. Pro Purple in particular is a well-liked budget tactile.
Kailh Cream
Made with NovelKeys, the Cream is a full-POM linear with a unique creamy feel and sound that improves as it breaks in. It is an enthusiast staple, though it benefits from lube.
Choc (low-profile)
The Choc switches power slim keyboards, in linear (Red), tactile (Brown), and clicky (White) flavors plus many colorways. They need Choc-specific keycaps, not standard MX ones, so plan keycaps around the switch.
How Kailh feels and sounds
Kailh’s personality is crisp and lively. The Box clickies are among the sharpest, most satisfying clicks you can buy, and the Choc switches feel snappy in a way no other low-profile matches. On linears, older Kailh switches could feel slightly scratchier than Gateron, but the Cream and Pro Burgundy are smooth and well-regarded. Overall, Kailh leans toward character and variety rather than one signature feel.
The best Kailh clicky switches
Kailh’s Box clickies are its standout products. Here are the three to know.
📷 Add image, Kailh Box White
Kailh Box White, the light clicky. A crisp, lighter click-bar clicky that is the easiest Box clicky to type on all day. The best starting point for the clicky sound.
Kailh Box Jade, the loud thick click. A heavier, louder click with a thick click bar and a big, satisfying tactile bump. The pick if you want the most dramatic clicky feel and do not share a room.
Kailh Box Navy, the heaviest click. The heaviest thick-click switch, with a firm, deliberate press. For typists who want maximum resistance and a bold click, but too heavy for fast gaming.
Cons: basic linears trail Gateron for out-of-box smoothness, Choc needs its own keycaps, and the sheer number of models can be confusing for beginners.
Who should buy Kailh switches?
Kailh is a great fit if you want a crisp clicky switch, a low-profile keyboard, or simply variety and value. It is also smart for anyone who wants dust and spill resistance from the Box design. If your top priority is the smoothest possible stock linear, Gateron is still the safer default, though Kailh’s Cream and Pro Burgundy are close.
Kailh vs Cherry vs Gateron
vs Cherry: Kailh offers more variety and, in the Box clickies, a crisper click than Cherry Blue, usually for less money.
vs Gateron: Gateron generally wins on smooth stock linears, while Kailh wins on clicky switches, low-profile, and range. Many builders own both.
Frequently asked questions
Are Kailh switches good?
Yes. They are reliable, varied, and good value, and they lead the market in clicky and low-profile switches. Their premium linears (Cream, Pro Burgundy) are well-liked too.
Are Kailh Box switches worth it?
If you want a clicky switch, yes. The click bar gives a crisper, more consistent click and faster reset than a Cherry Blue, plus dust resistance from the box stem.
Do Kailh switches fit any keyboard?
Standard Kailh switches use the MX mount and fit any MX-compatible board. Low-profile Choc switches only fit Choc-compatible boards and need Choc keycaps.
Kailh or Gateron, which is better?
Gateron for the smoothest stock linears, Kailh for clicky switches, low-profile, and variety. Neither is strictly better; it depends on what you want.
The bottom line
Kailh is a powerhouse switch brand with something for almost everyone. It is the top choice for crisp clicky switches and low-profile keyboards, offers unmatched variety, and delivers strong value. Its stock linears trail Gateron slightly, but the Cream and Pro series close the gap. For most people, there is a Kailh switch that fits the build perfectly.
We keep our brand guides updated as new switches launch.
Written by Elizabeth · Published June 24, 2023 Reviewed & Updated by Olivia · Updated on July 28, 2026
ABS and PBT are the two plastics almost every keycap set is made from, and the one you pick changes how your keyboard feels, sounds, and ages. Here is the short version, then the detail that actually matters when you are choosing a set.
⚡ Quick Answer
Buy PBT if you want keycaps that stay matte, resist the greasy shine that develops with use, and give a deeper sound. It is the better daily driver and the default recommendation for most people. Buy ABS if you want the brightest colors, the best RGB shine-through, or the lowest price, and you do not mind the tops polishing to a shine over time. Neither is strictly better; they suit different priorities.
ABS vs PBT at a Glance
ABS
PBT
Feel when new
Smooth, slightly slick
Lightly textured, grippy
Over time
Develops a glossy shine
Stays matte for years
Sound
Brighter, higher-pitched
Deeper, more muted (“thock”)
Durability
Good
Better
Color & RGB
Vivid colors, great shine-through
More muted, less vivid
Price
Cheaper
Roughly 20–50% more
Best for
Bright themes, RGB builds, budgets
Long-term daily drivers
How They Feel (And the Shine Problem)
Fresh out of the box, ABS keycaps feel smooth and a little slick, almost glassy. PBT feels slightly textured, closer to fine sandpaper, which gives your fingers more grip. That difference is subtle when both sets are new.
The gap opens up with use. ABS has a lower melting point and is softer, so the oils and friction from your fingers gradually polish the most-used keys into a glossy “shine.” Some people like that broken-in look; many do not, since it shows up first on the keys you touch most. PBT is harder and far more resistant to this, so it keeps its even matte texture for years. If shine is the thing you are trying to avoid, PBT is the answer.
How They Sound
Keycap material changes the sound of every keystroke. PBT is denser and dampens vibration, so it tends to sound deeper and more muted, the “thock” enthusiasts chase. ABS is a touch more resonant, giving a brighter, clackier sound that some gamers and typists actually prefer. Neither is right or wrong. Listen to both and pick the profile you like.
PBT keycap typing sound
ABS keycap typing sound
Durability and Cost
PBT wins on longevity. It resists wear, holds its texture, and shrugs off the UV fading and yellowing that can affect ABS left in sunlight. It also stands up better to the oils and cleaning agents a keyboard meets over its life. ABS is still perfectly durable for normal use; it just shows its age sooner.
That quality costs more. PBT sets usually run 20–50% above a comparable ABS set because the material is pricier and harder to mold well. If you keep a keyboard for years, that premium often pays for itself by outlasting a cheaper set you would otherwise replace. If you swap keycaps often or are on a tight budget, ABS gives you good quality for less.
Color, RGB, and Legends
ABS takes bright, saturated color better and is the go-to for vivid or translucent (shine-through) keycaps that show off RGB backlighting. PBT colors tend to look more muted, though PBT holds its color longer without fading.
For legends that never wear off on either material, look for double-shot keycaps, where the letter is a separate piece of plastic molded into the cap rather than printed on top. Double-shot PBT is the gold standard for durability; double-shot ABS is common on bright, RGB-friendly sets.
Which Should You Buy?
Buy PBT if you type for hours daily, keep keyboards long-term, hate keycap shine, or want a deeper sound. This covers most people, which is why PBT is our default pick.
Buy ABS if you want the brightest colors or the best RGB shine-through, you change keycaps often, or price is the deciding factor.
Either is fine if you are new to the hobby and just want a solid set. Both feel great when matched well to your switches and board.
Keycaps are only one part of the picture. How they sound and feel also depends on your keyboard, switches, and case, so think about the whole build, not just the plastic.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is PBT always better than ABS?
No. PBT is more durable and stays matte, which suits most people, but ABS takes bright colors and RGB shine-through better and costs less. The right choice depends on your priorities.
Why do my ABS keycaps look shiny?
ABS is a softer plastic, so friction and skin oils gradually polish the surface of your most-used keys into a glossy shine. It is normal and does not affect function, but it is the main reason people switch to PBT.
Do PBT keycaps really sound better?
PBT tends to sound deeper and more muted because it is denser, while ABS sounds brighter and clackier. “Better” is personal. Listen to the two samples above and choose the one you prefer.
Are PBT keycaps worth the extra money?
For a long-term daily keyboard, usually yes, since they outlast ABS and keep their look. If you change keycaps often or are on a budget, a good ABS set is still a smart buy.
How can I tell if keycaps are ABS or PBT?
Check the product listing first, as reputable sellers state the material. By feel, PBT is slightly textured and matte while ABS is smoother and glossier. PBT also tends to sound a little deeper when tapped.
We keep our keycap guides updated as new sets and materials reach the market.
Written by Elizabeth · Published June 21, 2023 Reviewed & Updated by Olivia · Updated on July 28, 2026
TKL and 75% keyboards both drop the number pad to save desk space, but they get there in different ways. A TKL keeps the classic full-size layout minus the numpad, with everything spaced out. A 75% squeezes almost the same keys into a smaller footprint by packing them together. Here is how to choose.
⚡ Quick Answer
Choose a TKL if you want the familiar, spaced-out feel of a full-size board with isolated arrow keys and a full navigation cluster, just without the numpad. Choose a 75% if you want the smallest board that still keeps the function row and arrow keys, and you do not mind the keys sitting closer together. Both skip the numpad, so if you crunch numbers often, neither may suit you.
What Is a TKL Keyboard?
A TKL (tenkeyless) keyboard removes the numeric keypad from a full-size layout, leaving roughly 87 keys at about 80% of the width. Everything else stays exactly where a full-size board puts it: a spaced function row, isolated arrow keys, and the full six-key navigation cluster (Insert, Home, Page Up, Delete, End, Page Down). If you learned to type on a standard keyboard, a TKL feels instantly familiar with more desk room for your mouse.
What Is a 75% Keyboard?
A 75% keyboard fits almost the same keys, about 84 of them, into a noticeably smaller body by removing the gaps between key groups. You still get a function row and dedicated arrow keys, but the navigation cluster is trimmed and the keys are packed tightly together, often in a single block. It is the most compact layout that still keeps the function row, which is why it has become one of the most popular sizes. For a deeper look, see our guide to 75% keyboards.
TKL vs 75% at a Glance
TKL (80%)
75%
Keys
~87
~84
Number pad
No
No
Function row
Yes, spaced
Yes, condensed
Arrow keys
Isolated
Tucked in
Nav cluster
Full (6 keys)
Partial
Footprint
Larger
Smaller
Layout feel
Familiar, spacious
Compact, tight
Why Choose a TKL
Familiar layout. Everything sits where you expect, so there is no learning curve coming from a full-size board.
Isolated arrow and nav keys. The gaps make it easy to find keys by feel, which helps for editing and productivity work.
More desk space than full-size. Dropping the numpad frees room for your mouse without changing how the main keys feel.
Easy to travel with. Lighter and smaller than a full-size board, but still comfortable for long sessions.
Why Choose a 75%
Smaller footprint. Noticeably more compact than a TKL while keeping the function row and arrows.
Keeps the essentials. You lose almost nothing important, just the spacing and part of the nav cluster.
Clean, dense look. The tightly packed layout has a tidy, modern aesthetic many people love.
Huge selection. The 75% size is extremely popular, so there are plenty of boards and keycap sets to choose from.
Which Should You Pick?
It comes down to how much you value spacing versus size. Choose a TKL if you want the reassuring, spread-out feel of a normal keyboard and reach for the navigation cluster often. Choose a 75% if desk space is tight or you simply prefer a smaller, denser board and can adjust to keys sitting closer together. Neither is objectively better; the best one is the layout you find most comfortable.
A popular 75% starting point is the Keychron K2, a well-priced hot-swappable board with wired and wireless modes. If you are still weighing sizes more broadly, our guide to keyboard sizes covers every layout from 40% to full-size.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is a 75% keyboard smaller than a TKL?
Yes. A 75% keyboard fits a similar number of keys into a smaller body by removing the gaps between key groups, so it takes up less desk space than a TKL, which keeps the spaced full-size arrangement minus the numpad.
Do both TKL and 75% keyboards have arrow keys?
Yes, both keep dedicated arrow keys. On a TKL they are isolated with space around them; on a 75% they are tucked in tight against the surrounding keys.
Which is better for gaming?
Both are great for gaming since removing the numpad brings your mouse closer and reduces shoulder strain. A TKL gives a little more spacing, while a 75% frees up the most desk space. Pick by feel.
Will my keycap set fit a 75% or TKL board?
Most standard keycap sets cover TKL layouts easily. Some 75% boards use non-standard bottom-row or modifier sizes, so check that your chosen set lists 75% support before buying.
We keep our layout guides updated as new board sizes and releases appear.
