Accessories

Somewhere in my second year of building keyboards, I bought a 120-pack of switch films because a video told me every switch “needs” them. I filmed an entire board’s worth of premium switches that already felt fantastic, and I genuinely could not tell the difference in a blind test against my own unfilmed board. That taught me the single most important thing about switch films: they are a fix for a specific problem, not a universal upgrade.

This guide explains exactly what switch films do, how to tell if your switches actually need them, which material to buy, and how to install them properly, so you don’t waste money on films your switches don’t need.

⚡ Quick Answer

Switch films are thin pieces of plastic, usually polycarbonate (PC) or PET, installed between a switch’s top and bottom housing to fill manufacturing gaps. They reduce housing wobble and tighten the sound profile. You don’t need them on every switch. They help most on switches with looser tolerances (budget switches, older or worn switches) and provide minimal benefit on already-tight premium switches. Test for wobble first before buying films for an entire board.

1. What Are Switch Films, Exactly?

A switch film is a thin, precisely cut piece of plastic, most commonly polycarbonate (PC) or PET (occasionally PORON foam), shaped to fit the rim where a switch’s top housing meets its bottom housing. During manufacturing, these two halves are produced to a tolerance, and that tolerance leaves a microscopic gap. The film fills that gap.

🎯 What It Fixes

Housing wobble: the small lateral or rotational movement of the top housing relative to the bottom housing during a keystroke.

🔊 Side Effect

A tighter housing fit changes the acoustic resonance of the switch, typically producing a deeper, more controlled sound, what the community calls “thock.”

2. Why Housing Wobble Happens

Every switch housing is injection-molded, and even tight tolerances leave a small gap between the top and bottom pieces. This gap allows slight lateral and rotational movement during a keystroke, what enthusiasts call “wobble.” Older switches, worn switches, and budget switches tend to show more wobble because of looser tolerances or material wear over time.

Wobble is rarely large enough to see, usually well under half a millimeter, but it is very audible. It manifests as a hollow, inconsistent “clack” rather than a clean, controlled sound, and it can make a keyboard feel less premium even when the switches are otherwise good quality.

3. Do You Actually Need Films?

🧪 The Wobble Test (do this first). Hold a single switch and gently try to rock the top housing side to side relative to the bottom. If you feel noticeable movement or hear a faint rattle, your switches will likely benefit from films. If the housing feels solid with essentially no perceptible movement, films will provide minimal improvement, so save your money.

Switch ProfileFilms Likely To Help?Why
Budget switches (Outemu, basic Akko)✅ YesLooser factory tolerances are common
Older or heavily-used switches✅ YesPlastic wear increases the housing gap over time
Known “loose batch” switch models✅ YesCommunity-documented tolerance issues
Premium switches (Gateron Ink, Oil Kings)⚠️ MaybeTighter tolerances, test before buying
New switches with tight factory fit❌ UnlikelyAlready minimal gap to fill
Pre-filmed switches from manufacturer❌ NoAlready addressed at the factory

📌 Test before you commit. Film 5–10 switches first and compare them against unfilmed switches in a side-by-side type test. If you can’t tell the difference, you’ve saved yourself the time and cost of filming an entire keyboard’s worth of switches.

4. Film Materials: PC vs PET vs PORON

Polycarbonate (PC) films are the most rigid and produce the tightest housing fit, maximising the deep “thock.” PET films are slightly less rigid, offering a more moderate tightening effect. PORON foam films are soft and compressible, used less often, mainly on very loose or worn switches where a harder film might not seat well.

MaterialRigiditySound ImpactBest For
Polycarbonate (PC)HighMaximises thock depthEnthusiasts wanting max sound impact
PETMediumSubtle, balanced tighteningGeneral improvement, budget option
PORON foamLow (compressible)Dampens, slightly mufflesVery loose or old switches, quiet builds

5. Choosing the Right Thickness

Most switch films are sold in 0.125mm and 0.15mm thicknesses, with some 0.2mm options for switches with larger housing gaps. The general guidance:

  • 0.125mm: a safer, more conservative starting point, particularly for switches you suspect already have tighter tolerances.
  • 0.15mm: the most common recommendation, providing noticeable wobble reduction for the majority of switches.
  • 0.2mm: reserved for unusually loose housings; can occasionally cause reassembly difficulty if the gap is smaller than expected.

⚠️ Too thick can cause problems. If a film is thicker than the actual housing gap, the top housing sits slightly raised, making the switch harder to snap together or adding a slight increase in actuation force. If you feel resistance during reassembly, try a thinner film.

6. How to Install Switch Films

  1. Open the switch with a switch opener, separating the top housing from the bottom. Set the stem and spring aside.
  2. Position the film over the bottom housing rim. Most films have cutouts that align with the internal posts and the gold contact leaf, so do not cover the leaf.
  3. Check alignment. The film should sit flush with no overhang or wrinkling. Use tweezers for fine adjustment.
  4. Reassemble. Return the spring and stem, then snap the top housing back on. If it needs excessive force, the film may be too thick.
  5. Test. Press the switch and listen. A properly filmed switch should sound and feel noticeably tighter than before.

💡 Film before you lube. Handle the dry housing and film first, then apply lubricant to the stem and rails after the film is seated. See our switch lubing guide for the full process to pair with filming.

7. Common Misconceptions

🚫 “All switches need films.” False. Many modern premium switches already have tight tolerances and show minimal improvement. Test before committing to a full board.

🚫 “Thicker films are always better.” False. A film thicker than the actual gap can cause reassembly issues or a slight increase in actuation force. Start with 0.15mm unless you have a specific reason to go thicker.

⚠️ “Films will fix a scratchy switch.” Films address housing wobble, not internal friction. Scratchiness is a lubrication issue. Films and lube solve different problems and work best together, not as substitutes.

8. Frequently Asked Questions

What are switch films?

Switch films are thin pieces of plastic, typically polycarbonate (PC) or PET, that fit between a switch’s top and bottom housing. They fill the microscopic manufacturing gap between the two halves, reducing wobble and tightening the switch’s sound.

Do all switches need films?

No. Switches with already-tight tolerances, including many modern premium switches, show minimal improvement from filming. Films help most on looser housings: budget switches, older or worn switches, and certain batches known for looser tolerances.

How do I know if my switches need films?

Hold a switch and gently rock the top housing side to side relative to the bottom. Noticeable movement or rattle means films will likely help. A solid feel with no perceptible movement means films will provide minimal improvement.

What is the difference between PC and PET switch films?

Polycarbonate (PC) is more rigid and provides the tightest housing fit, maximising the deep thock sound. PET is slightly less rigid, offering a more moderate tightening effect. PC is the popular choice for maximum sound impact; PET is a reasonable middle ground.

Do switch films affect tactile bump or click feel?

Properly installed films sit at the housing seam, not at the stem’s tactile legs or click mechanism, so they shouldn’t meaningfully affect bump or click feel. A film that is too thick can occasionally introduce slight stem binding, so stick to 0.15mm unless you have a specific reason to deviate.

How long does it take to film a keyboard’s worth of switches?

Filming a 60–80 key keyboard typically takes 1–2 hours depending on experience, similar to lubing. Many enthusiasts film and lube in the same session since both require the switch to be disassembled.

Can switch films damage my switches?

Films are generally safe when correctly sized and carefully installed. Risks are limited to using the wrong thickness or excessive force during reassembly. There is no permanent modification involved, you can remove the film at any time.

⚡ Quick answer

O-rings are small rubber or silicone rings you slip onto your keycap stems to cushion the bottom-out, which cuts the loud clack of a key hitting the plate. They are the cheapest and fastest way to make a board quieter, usually a few dollars for a full set. The catch is that they only soften the down-stroke, and they shorten your key travel. For most people a thin, medium-hardness ring is the sweet spot. If you want a cleaner result with full travel, silent switches or a foam mod do a better job.

What o-rings actually do

An o-ring sits under the keycap, on the stem. When you press a key, the cap lands on the rubber instead of slamming into the switch housing. That softens both the impact noise and the harsh feel of bottoming out. It changes nothing about the upstroke or the switch’s own click and rattle, so an o-ring quiets one part of the sound, not the whole thing. Think of it as a shock absorber for the last millimetre of the keypress.

Do o-rings actually work?

Yes, for what they are. If your board has a loud, hollow bottom-out, o-rings noticeably take the edge off for very little money. The trade-off is feel. Because the ring stops the key early, travel gets shorter and the bottom-out feels softer, sometimes a little mushy. Some people love that cushioned landing; others find it dead and lifeless. It comes down to taste, and at a few dollars a set it is cheap to find out which camp you are in.

What they will not do is turn a mechanical board into a laptop. Expect the bottom-out to drop from sharp to muted, not to vanish. If someone across the room can still hear you typing after fitting o-rings, that is normal.

Rubber or silicone? Materials that matter

Most o-rings are made from rubber or silicone, and the difference is mostly longevity. Rubber is cheap and works fine, but it can harden and yellow over a year or two. Silicone stays soft longer and does not degrade as fast, so it is the better long-term buy if you can find it. A newer option is foam or PORON dampeners, which some builders prefer because they compress more evenly and add less mush than a hard rubber ring.

Thickness and hardness, explained

Two numbers decide how an o-ring behaves: how thick it is, and how soft it is (its durometer, written as a number followed by A).

SpecSofter / thinnerFirmer / thicker
Thickness~0.2mm: barely shortens travel, light dampening~0.4mm+: cuts more travel, more dampening
Hardness~40A: squishier, absorbs more, softer landing50 to 70A: crisper, dampens less, keeps feel

If you are unsure, start thin and medium-hard (around 0.2mm and 50A). It is the setup that quiets a board while changing the feel the least, and it is the one most people end up keeping.

What to look for when buying o-rings

There is no single best set, because the right ring depends on how much quiet you want and how much travel you are willing to give up. Buy by spec, not by brand, and match it to your goal:

  • The safe all-rounder: a Cherry MX-compatible set around 0.2mm thickness and 50A hardness. Quiets the board with the least change to feel. Start here.
  • Maximum quiet: a thicker (0.4mm), softer (40A) set. You accept shorter, softer travel in exchange for the biggest drop in noise.
  • Keep it crisp: a thin, firmer (50 to 70A) set for people who want a little less clack without a soft, mushy bottom-out.
  • Just testing: a cheap bulk pack of MX-compatible rings is fine for a first try before you commit to anything nicer.

Whatever you buy, check the listing explicitly says it fits Cherry MX-style stems, and buy enough for a full board plus spares (you will drop a few).

O-rings vs silent switches vs foam

O-rings are one of three common ways to quiet a board, and they are the cheapest rather than the best. Here is how they stack up.

MethodCostEffortTrade-off
O-ringsA few dollars15 to 20 minShorter, softer travel
Silent switchesSwitch priceSwap or solderCosts more, cleaner feel and full travel
Case and stab foamCheapOpen the caseFixes case echo and rattle, not the bottom-out itself

Serious about a quiet board? Do more than one. O-rings on the keycaps, a dampened switch, and a little foam in the case together beat any single fix. Our best silent switches guide covers the switch side, and the stabilizer guide handles the rattle o-rings cannot reach.

How to install o-rings

  1. Pull a keycap with a wire keycap puller. Pull straight up so you do not bend switch pins.
  2. Slip one o-ring over the stem on the underside of the keycap, seating it flat against the base of the cap.
  3. Press the keycap back on until it clicks into place.
  4. Repeat for every key. A full board of 87 to 104 keys takes about 15 to 20 minutes.
  5. Type for a day. If it feels too soft, swap to thinner rings; too loud still, go thicker.

Do o-rings damage keycaps or switches?

No. O-rings are fully reversible and do not harm keycaps or switches. They sit on the stem and press nothing that wears out, so if you dislike the feel you just pull the caps and remove them. The only real risk is bending a switch pin while pulling keycaps, which is a keycap-removal issue, not an o-ring one. Pull straight up and you will be fine.

Frequently asked questions

Do o-rings make a keyboard quieter?

Yes. O-rings soften the bottom-out noise, the sound of a key hitting the plate. They do not quiet the upstroke or the switch’s own click, so they cut one part of the noise rather than all of it. Expect the clack to drop from sharp to muted.

Do o-rings ruin typing feel?

They shorten travel and soften the bottom-out. Some people like the cushioned landing, others find it mushy. Thinner rings (around 0.2mm) reduce the effect, so you can quiet the board without changing the feel much. It is reversible if you dislike it.

What size o-rings fit a mechanical keyboard?

Rings sized for Cherry MX-style stems fit the vast majority of mechanical keyboards. Check the listing says MX-compatible before buying. Most sets include enough rings for a full-size board with spares.

Are o-rings or silent switches better?

Silent switches feel cleaner and keep full travel, but they cost more and mean swapping switches. O-rings are the cheap, reversible option if you just want to take the edge off a loud board without opening it up. Many people use both.

How many o-rings do I need?

One per key. A 60% board needs about 61, a tenkeyless around 87, and a full-size 104. Buy a set with a comfortable margin, since a few always go missing during install.

Are o-rings good for gaming?

They can be. The softer bottom-out reduces finger fatigue in long sessions, and the shorter travel means a slightly faster return for some players. Competitive players who bottom out hard sometimes prefer the cushioned landing, though it is a matter of feel rather than a real speed gain.

The bottom line

O-rings are the cheapest and easiest way to quiet a loud keyboard, and they are worth the few dollars if bottom-out noise bothers you. Start with a thin, medium-hardness, MX-compatible set, type on it for a day, and adjust the thickness from there. If you want a cleaner result without the softer feel, put the money toward silent switches or a foam mod instead, or stack all three for the quietest board you can build.