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Akko makes some of the best value switches you can buy, and some of the most confusing names in the hobby. CS, V3, Pro, Lubed, and a colour scheme that reuses the same names across different switch types. This guide decodes the naming first, then walks through what each family actually feels like, so you can shop Akko without second-guessing what you are adding to the basket.
⚡ Quick answer: CS is the budget line, V3 is the newer generation with better housings, and Pro means factory lubed with a dustproof stem. If you want one Akko switch and no research, get a V3 Pro linear. The colour tells you the specific switch, not the type, so always check the type before buying.
Decoding the names
Akko switch names stack up in a predictable order once you know the parts: generation, then line, then colour, then whether it is lubed. “Akko V3 Cream Yellow Pro” is a third-generation Cream Yellow from the Pro line.
| Name part | What it means |
|---|---|
| CS | Custom Series, Akko’s budget line. Good switches, basic housings, usually unlubed. |
| V3 | Third generation. Better mould tolerances, less stem wobble, improved sound over CS. |
| Pro | Factory lubed with a dustproof stem. The single biggest jump in feel for the money. |
| Lubed | Hand-lubed version of a CS switch. Sold alongside the unlubed one at a small premium. |
| Colour | Identifies the specific switch, not its type. Check the type separately. |
⚠️ The trap worth knowing: colour names get reused across types and generations, and they do not always match. CS Matcha Green is linear, and so is V3 Matcha Green Pro, but plenty of listings describe one or the other as tactile. Read the switch type on the product page, never infer it from the colour.
The four families
Linear
Straight down, no bump, no click. This is where Akko is strongest and where most of the range sits. The V3 Pro linears in particular punch well above their price, because factory lubing does most of what people used to spend an evening doing by hand.
Popular picks include Cream Yellow Pro, Piano Pro, Jelly Black and Silver Pro. We rank the full range in our best Akko linear switches guide.
Tactile
A bump partway through the press that tells you the key registered. Akko’s tactiles are gentler than enthusiast options like the Boba U4T, which suits people who want feedback without a pronounced obstacle on every keystroke. V3 Cream Blue Pro and CS Ocean Blue are the common entry points.
If you want a bump and are open to other brands, our best tactile switches roundup compares Akko against the rest.
Clicky
A bump plus an audible click, produced by a click bar or click jacket. Akko’s clicky range is the smallest of the four, and honestly the least compelling part of the lineup. If you want clicky, Kailh Box Jades and Cherry MX Blues are still the reference points.
Before you commit, it is worth reading whether clicky suits how you actually use the board. Our take on blue switches for gaming covers the trade-offs.
Silent
Dampened switches with rubber pads in the stem that cushion the bottom-out and the return. Akko’s headline silent switch is the V3 Penguin, which is a silent tactile rather than a linear, and is one of the cheapest genuinely quiet switches on the market.
For how Akko’s silent options compare with Cherry, Gazzew and Durock, see our best silent switches guide.
Which Akko switch should you buy?
- Pick the family first. Smooth means linear, feedback means tactile, noise means clicky, quiet means silent. Nothing about Akko changes this decision. If you are unsure, our tactile vs linear guide is the place to start.
- Then pick the line. If the budget stretches, choose V3 Pro over CS every time. Factory lubing is the difference between a good cheap switch and one that feels genuinely premium.
- Then pick the colour. This is where weight and sound vary. Check the actuation force on the product page rather than trusting the name.
- Buy a sample pack if you can. Akko sells small quantities cheaply, and feeling three switches beats reading thirty reviews.
Frequently asked questions
Are Akko switches compatible with my keyboard?
Yes, if your board takes standard MX-style switches, which nearly all mechanical keyboards do. Watch the pin count: Akko sells both 3-pin and 5-pin versions, and a 5-pin switch needs a PCB with the extra holes. Our 3-pin vs 5-pin guide explains how to check and how to clip them if needed.
Is CS or V3 better?
V3, in almost every case. The newer housings have tighter tolerances, which means less stem wobble and a cleaner sound. CS is still fine for a first build or a cheap second board, and the price gap is small enough that V3 is usually worth it.
Do I still need to lube a Pro switch?
No. Factory lubing on the Pro line is applied well enough that hand-lubing gains you very little for the hours it costs. If you enjoy the process you can still improve them slightly, but nobody needs to. See best factory-lubed linear switches for how Akko compares with Gateron here.
Are Akko switches good for gaming?
Yes. The V3 Silver Pro is a light speed linear built for exactly that, and the Cream Yellow Pro is a strong all-rounder for people who game and type on the same board. Weight matters more than brand here.