75% Keyboards

Disclosure: This review contains affiliate links. If you buy through them we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. Our verdict is based on the product, not the commission.

The Epomaker TH80 Pro is a wireless 75% mechanical keyboard that tries to give you enthusiast features, hot-swap switches, a gasket-mounted feel, PBT keycaps, and triple connectivity, at a mainstream price. For most people who type and browse, it delivers. For competitive gamers and anyone who needs deep software control, it has real limits. Here is the full picture after living with it.

⚡ Verdict

A strong value pick for typists and multi-device users who want a comfortable wireless 75% out of the box. Skip it if you need low-latency competitive gaming or VIA and QMK remapping. Rating: 4 out of 5.

Check price at Epomaker
Epomaker TH80 Pro 75% mechanical keyboard
The Epomaker TH80 Pro is a wireless 75% board with a rotary knob.

Specifications

Layout75% with rotary knob (around 80 to 84 keys)
SwitchesHot-swappable (5-pin), ships with Epomaker or Gateron options
KeycapsPBT dye-sublimated
MountingGasket-mounted with sound-absorbing foam
BacklightSouth-facing per-key RGB
ConnectivityBluetooth 5.0, 2.4GHz wireless, USB-C wired (tri-mode)
SoftwareEpomaker driver (Windows); no VIA or QMK
CompatibilityWindows and macOS
Battery4,000 mAh; owners report weeks between charges with lighting low
PriceCheck the current listing through the button above

Design and build

The TH80 Pro is a compact 75% board, so it keeps the function row and arrow keys but drops the numpad, which frees up desk space and brings your mouse closer. There is a rotary knob in the top right for volume and other controls, and the case feels solid with no obvious flex.

The keycaps are PBT dye-sublimated, which means they stay matte and resist the greasy shine that cheaper ABS keycaps develop over time. It is a genuinely nice set for the price, and the legends are clean.

Epomaker TH80 Pro side profile showing the case and keycaps
PBT dye-sub keycaps and a solid case give it a more premium feel than the price suggests.

Typing experience

This is where the TH80 Pro earns its keep. The gasket-mounted plate and internal foam give the typing feel a soft, cushioned bottom-out instead of a hard, hollow tap. Out of the box it sounds fuller and quieter than most boards at this price, without any modding.

Because the switches are hot-swappable, you are not locked into what it ships with. If the stock feel is not for you, you can pull the switches and press in new ones with no soldering. If you are deciding between switch types first, our guide to tactile vs linear switches is a good starting point, and you can improve the sound further with our switch lubing guide.

Wireless and connectivity

The TH80 Pro is tri-mode. You can connect over Bluetooth 5.0 to as many as three devices and switch between them, use the 2.4GHz USB dongle for a more stable wireless link, or plug in over USB-C. Moving between a work PC, a laptop, and a tablet is quick, which makes it a good fit for a multi-device desk.

Bluetooth is convenient but adds a little latency, so for anything time-sensitive use the 2.4GHz dongle or a cable. That is normal for wireless keyboards, not a fault unique to this one.

Battery life

The 4,000 mAh battery is one of the board’s real strengths, and how long it lasts depends almost entirely on the RGB lighting. With the backlight off or low, owners regularly report going weeks, in some cases close to a month, between charges. Run the RGB at full brightness and it drains far faster, so turning the lighting down is the easy way to stretch it. You can always fall back to the cable while it charges.

Software

This is the weakest part of the package. The TH80 Pro uses Epomaker’s own driver rather than the open VIA or QMK standard that many enthusiasts prefer. The software works for remapping keys, setting macros, and changing lighting, but the interface is clunky and less flexible than VIA. If deep, precise customization is a priority, this is the main thing to weigh before buying.

Gaming performance

For casual and mid-level gaming, the TH80 Pro is fine, especially wired or on the 2.4GHz dongle. For competitive play, it is not the right tool. Wireless latency is higher than a dedicated gaming board, and there is no rapid trigger or adjustable actuation. If fast shooters are your focus, a wired board or a magnetic-switch keyboard, like the picks in our best Akko keyboards guide, will serve you better.

What buyers say

We read through owner reviews and hands-on coverage to see how the TH80 Pro holds up beyond one desk. A few themes come up again and again.

What owners praise: the sound and feel out of the box, the value at around $99, and especially the battery. Several reviewers report going weeks, in some cases close to a month, between charges with the lighting kept low, backed by the 4,000 mAh cell.

Common complaints: Bluetooth can be slow to reconnect when the board wakes, the Epomaker software feels sluggish moving between menus, and the keycaps do not print the secondary functions, so you have to memorize shortcuts. A smaller group report quality-control and support issues, from glitchy keys to slow warranty help, so it is worth buying from a seller with an easy return path.

Pros and cons

✅ Pros

  • Tri-mode wireless plus wired, easy multi-device switching
  • Hot-swappable switches, no soldering to change the feel
  • Gasket mount and foam give a soft, full sound out of the box
  • PBT dye-sub keycaps that resist shine
  • Rotary knob and per-key RGB
  • Strong value for the feature set

❌ Cons

  • Epomaker software is clunky, with no VIA or QMK support
  • Legends can be hard to read in a dark room
  • Wireless latency is not ideal for competitive gaming
  • Battery drains quickly with RGB at full brightness
  • Fewer stock switch options than some rivals

Who should buy it, and who should skip it

Buy it if you mostly type, want a comfortable wireless 75% that sounds good without modding, and like the idea of switching between a PC, laptop, and tablet. At its price, it is one of the easier boards to recommend for everyday use.

Skip it if you play competitive games and need the lowest latency, you want full VIA or QMK remapping, or you need a numpad. Those needs point to a different board.

Alternatives worth considering

  • Want VIA and QMK: a Keychron V1 gives you full open-source remapping in a similar 75% size, usually for less, though it is wired.
  • Want competitive gaming: a magnetic-switch board with rapid trigger, such as the picks in our best Akko keyboards guide, is the better tool.
  • Not sure on size: our keyboard sizes and types guide helps you decide before you commit.

Final verdict

The Epomaker TH80 Pro is a lot of keyboard for the money. You get a gasket-mounted 75% with hot-swap switches, PBT keycaps, a knob, and triple connectivity, and it types and sounds good straight out of the box. The catches are the clunky software with no VIA or QMK, and wireless latency that rules it out for serious competitive gaming. If those are not deal-breakers for you, it is an easy, comfortable board to live with, and a genuine value at its price.

Check price at Epomaker

Frequently asked questions

Is the Epomaker TH80 Pro good for gaming?

It is fine for casual and mid-level gaming, especially wired or on the 2.4GHz dongle. For competitive play it falls short, because wireless latency is higher than a dedicated gaming board and there is no rapid trigger or adjustable actuation. Serious gamers should look at a wired or magnetic-switch board.

Is the TH80 Pro hot-swappable?

Yes. It uses hot-swap sockets, so you can pull the switches out and press new ones in with no soldering. That lets you change how the board feels later without buying a new keyboard.

Does the TH80 Pro support VIA or QMK?

No. It relies on Epomaker’s own driver software for remapping, macros, and lighting. That software works but is less flexible than VIA, so if open-source remapping matters to you, this is the main limitation to weigh.

How is the battery life?

It depends heavily on the RGB lighting. With the backlight off or low, it lasts for days of normal use. At full brightness it drains much faster. Turning the lighting down is the simplest way to extend it, and you can use it wired while it charges.

Does it work with Mac?

Yes. The TH80 Pro works with both Windows and macOS and can pair with several devices over Bluetooth, so switching between a PC and a Mac is straightforward. The configuration software is best supported on Windows.

We revisit our reviews as firmware, pricing, and competing models change, so this verdict stays current.

The 75% layout is the one most people end up on. It keeps the function row that 65% boards drop, keeps the arrow keys that 60% boards hide behind a layer, and still takes up meaningfully less desk than a tenkeyless. Nothing is missing, everything is just closer together.

⚡ Quick answer: For most people the Keychron Q1 Max is the one to buy: aluminium, gasket mounted, wireless, and QMK programmable. Gaming first? The Keychron K2 HE has adjustable actuation. On a budget, the Monsgeek M1 V5 gives you a custom-feeling board for far less.

What makes a keyboard 75%

A 75% board has around 82 to 84 keys. It keeps the full alphanumeric block, the function row, and the arrow keys. What it drops is the number pad, and what it changes is the spacing: the gaps that normally separate the function row and the navigation cluster are removed, so everything sits in one dense rectangle.

The navigation keys move too. Instead of a separate six-key block, you usually get a single column down the right edge holding Delete, Page Up, Page Down and similar. That column is the defining feature of the layout, and it is what people either love or find cramped.

75% against the alternatives

LayoutKeysFunction rowArrowsNumber pad
Full-size104YesYesYes
Tenkeyless87YesYesNo
75%~84YesYesNo
65%~68NoYesNo
60%~61NoLayer onlyNo

The comparison that actually matters is against tenkeyless, because they hold the same keys. A TKL spaces them out with gaps; a 75% compresses them. You save roughly an inch of width and lose the visual separation that makes keys easy to find by feel. Our TKL vs 75% comparison covers that trade-off properly, and if you are considering going smaller, the 65% guide explains what dropping the function row costs.

The best 75% keyboards

1. Keychron Q1 Max, the best for most people

A full CNC aluminium case, gasket mounting, hot-swap sockets, and QMK and VIA support, with wireless added over the plain Q1. It is heavy enough that it does not move, and the gasket mount gives a softer typing feel than a rigid tray-mount board.

The reason it is the default recommendation is that it needs nothing. Most boards at this level are a starting point you improve; this one arrives finished, and the QMK support means the layout is yours to change without installing anything proprietary.

Buy it if you want one board that does everything and never think about it again.
Skip it if you want something light to carry, or you are shopping at the budget end.

Check price on Amazon

2. Keychron K2 HE, the best for gaming

This is the Hall-effect version, which changes what the board can do rather than just how it feels. Magnetic switches let you set the actuation point in software, anywhere from a hair trigger to a deliberate deep press, and they enable rapid trigger, where the key resets the instant you begin lifting it.

For competitive play that is a genuine mechanical advantage rather than a marketing one. The trade-off is that magnetic switches are not interchangeable with normal MX switches, so you are committing to that ecosystem. Our Hall-effect switches explainer covers how they work.

Buy it if you play competitively and want adjustable actuation.
Skip it if you want to swap in your own MX switches later.

Check price on Amazon

3. Monsgeek M1 V5, the best value

Monsgeek’s pitch is an aluminium, gasket-mounted, VIA-programmable board at a price that undercuts the established names substantially. It is the cheapest realistic route to a board that feels like a custom rather than a prebuilt.

Where it gives ground is polish. Quality control is less consistent than Keychron’s, and you are more likely to want to tune the stabilizers yourself. That is an hour’s work and our stabilizer guide covers it, but it is work you may not have to do on a pricier board.

Buy it if you want custom-tier feel and are happy to tinker a little.
Skip it if you want guaranteed out-of-box perfection.

Check price on Amazon

4. Akko 5075B Plus, the best budget wireless

Akko’s 5075B Plus covers the practical basics well: triple-mode connectivity, hot-swap sockets, decent PBT keycaps, and Akko’s own factory-lubed switches, at a price well below the aluminium boards above.

It is a plastic-cased board, so it will not feel as dense or sound as deep as a CNC case. What it does is remove almost every compromise people expect at its price, which makes it the sensible first 75% for someone who does not want a project.

Buy it if you want wireless and hot-swap without spending heavily.
Skip it if case density and sound are what you care about most.

Check price at Akko

Also worth knowing: Rainy75 and Zoom75

Two boards dominate enthusiast discussion of this layout, and neither is a standard retail purchase, so we are flagging rather than ranking them.

The WOBKEY Rainy75 earned its reputation on sound and weight for the money, with a dense aluminium case and gasket mount at a price that undercut expectations. The Zoom75 and boards like it sit a tier above again, sold through group buys and community rounds rather than continuously, which means availability comes and goes.

If you are prepared to wait for stock or a round to open, both are worth watching. If you want to order today and have it arrive this week, the four above are the practical choices.

How to choose

  1. Case material first. Aluminium is heavier, denser and deeper sounding. Plastic is lighter and cheaper. This affects the finished sound more than the switches do.
  2. Mounting style second. Gasket mounting gives a softer, more cushioned press than a rigid tray mount. Most boards worth buying now use gaskets.
  3. Hot-swap, unless you are certain. Sockets let you change switches later without soldering, which is the difference between one keyboard and an ongoing hobby.
  4. Wireless only if you will use it. It adds cost and, on some boards, a small latency penalty in Bluetooth mode. If the board never leaves your desk, wired is one less thing to charge.

Switch choice matters as much as the board itself, and it is the easiest thing to change later. Our best linear switches and best tactile switches guides cover the options.

Frequently asked questions

Is a 75% keyboard good for gaming?

Yes. You keep WASD, the arrow keys and the function row, and losing the number pad brings your mouse hand closer to your body, which is an ergonomic gain at low sensitivity. The only genuine loss is the number pad itself.

75% or TKL?

They hold the same keys, so it comes down to spacing. TKL separates the function row and navigation cluster with gaps, which makes keys easier to find by feel. 75% compresses everything and saves about an inch of width. If you touch-type heavily and rely on gaps for orientation, TKL is the safer choice.

Will standard keycap sets fit a 75%?

Usually, but check the right-hand column and the bottom row before buying. 75% boards vary in how they size the modifiers next to the arrow keys, and that is where sets most often come up short. Count the keys against the set’s kit list rather than assuming.

Do I need QMK or VIA?

Only if you want to remap keys or build layers. VIA gives you a drag-and-drop interface with no code, and QMK is the open firmware underneath it. If you will use the board exactly as it ships, neither matters.